Muga Rioja Reserva, 2020

Muga is arguably the most traditional bodega in Rioja. It’s based next to the railway station – the heart of old Haro, and there’s not a stainless-steel tank in sight. They even have their own cooper to give their barrels the perfect amount of toasting. Unsurprisingly, this Reserva is a real classic. It’s a masterclass in ageing, spending 36 months in oak before further resting in the bottle. The long maturation gives it incredible structure and complexity. Full. Smooth. Supple. Its flavours are richly complex. Think blackberry, vanilla, coffee and a hint of spice. This will easily last for a decade – but it’s delicious now. Enjoy it best with rack of lamb.